How Valpolicella reconciles tradition with a global vision

Valpolicella is a land of hills and mountains, with altitudes ranging from 100 to 600 metres above sea level. Its hilly terrain contributes to the quality of the grapes, offering them soils with better drainage and optimal exposure to sunshine. The Mediterranean climate favours longer hang times, which play a pivotal role in the development of complex aromas in the wines. The key grape varieties here are Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella, Molinara and Oseleta but also lesser known varieties such as Forselina and Negrara. The soils comprise a mixture of clay, limestone and gravel and this diversity promotes variety in the local wines, impacting their aromatic profile and structure.

The Valpolicella appellation area covers over 8,500 hectares across 19 localities that stretch from the hills to Verona. The vineyards are managed by some 2,200 winegrowers, alongside 316 bottling firms and six co-operatives. 2023 production was in excess of 61 million bottles, spanning the Valpolicella, Valpolicella Ripasso, Amarone and Recioto labels and 60 percent of the wines were exported to 87 countries around the world.

The region fans outwards from the foothills west of Lake Garda and is sheltered by the Lessini Mountains to the east and north. It is divided into three main zones:
- The Classic Zone which includes five areas: Sant'Ambrogio di Valpolicella, San Pietro in Cariano, and the valleys of Fumane, Marano and Negrar.
- The Valpantena Zone which includes Valpantena valley.
- The DOC zone which includes the districts of Verona and the valleys of Illasi, Tramigna and Mezzane.

The wines produced in the appellation are:
Valpolicella DOC, which can also be Valpolicella DOC Classico and Valpolicella DOC Valpantena, depending on the production area. This is the most direct, fresh and versatile expression of the region.
Valpolicella Superiore DOC, as well as Valpolicella DOC Classico Superiore and Valpolicella DOC Valpantena Superiore, is a wine that matures for at least a year, resulting in lower acidity and greater roundness than Valpolicella. 
Valpolicella Ripasso DOC, which can also be Valpolicella Ripasso DOC Classico or Valpolicella Ripasso DOC Valpantena, is made through an ancient technique involving re-fermentation on the pomace of Amarone or Recioto. The process enriches the wine with complex aromas and flavours.

Recioto della Valpolicella DOCG, as well as Recioto della Valpolicella DOCG Classico and Valpantena, are made from grapes dried for around 120 days. They display a garnet-red hue and aromas of black cherry, violets and spices. There is also a sparkling version.
Lastly, Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG, which includes Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG Classico and Valpantena, is made from raisins and undergoes a mandatory ageing period of two to four years, developing considerable complexity. Appassimento or rather the ‘technique of laying the grapes to rest’ in Valpolicella has been nominated as Unesco heritage. Appassimento is a complex drying technique, which begins with hand selection of the healthiest and ripest grapes placed in specific conditions so that water evaporates and sugars and other key substances can be concentrated. This results in a reduction in grape weight of up to 50 percent and a transformation of berry metabolism, increasing the concentration of polyphenols, sugars and organic acidity and providing the wines with longevity and unique organoleptic characteristics. The technique, which can take place in climate-controlled facilities or natural fruit orchards, takes a long time and leads to a significant loss of product, but ensures greater aromatic quality and structure in the wine.

To gain a better understanding of the region, its history and the local wines, we have selected a number of wineries whose differing characteristics offer an all-round overview.

Tedeschi Wines, a family story marked by foresight and respect

The Tedeschi family's story began in 1630 when it purchased land in the area. Winemaking has been documented here since 1824. In the 1960s, Lorenzo Tedeschi discovered the potential of grapes from the Monte Olmi vineyard, purchased in 1918, and began vinifying them separately, creating the winery's signature Amarone. Today, Lorenzo's children, Antonietta, Sabrina and Riccardo, run the winery, keeping the family traditions alive. The Tedeschis own 48 hectares of vineyards in hilly areas, growing mainly Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella and Oseleta. Annual production is in the range of half a million bottles, divided between different labels of Valpolicella and Amarone.

The Tedeschi winery is located in the centre of Pedemonte, in the heart of the Valpolicella Classic territory.

The Tedeschi winery's recently opened wine library contains around 27,000 bottles of back vintages.

The Tedeschi winery stands out for its balance of tradition and innovation, with a deep-rooted knowledge of Valpolicella’s terroir. The production of Amarone and Valpolicella is focused on vineyards between 200 and 500 m above sea level, selected for their potential, where the soils are calcareous-marl with a good mineral profile. The breezy climate favours aromas and colour in the wines. The winery is certified sustainable according to the Equalitas and Biodiversity Friend protocols as it implements agricultural practices that promote biodiversity and enhance the environment. To ensure quality, the winery has been using a controlled appassimento system since 1989, with a fruit cellar built in 2005 to manage temperatures, ventilation and humidity levels. A recently opened wine cellar holds some 27,000 bottles of back vintages, with 6,800 bottles available for tasting and sale, offering a unique resource for collectors and restaurateurs. The company's main wines include Valpolicella Superiore, Valpolicella Classico Superiore, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva and Amarone Riserva. Tedeschi is a pioneer in Valpolicella cru wines, where its approach elicits terroir characters in its complex, elegant wines. Around 80% of the wines are exported to over 50 countries, with the main markets being Canada, Germany, the UK, Holland, Northern Europe, Switzerland, Asia and Australia.

Siblings Lorenzo, Antonietta, Sabrina and Riccardo run the Tedeschi winery where they reconcile respect for family traditions with a forward-looking approach.

Provolo Wines, where passion, quality and sustainability are guiding principles

Since 1927, the Provolo family has been producing wine in the hilly valley of Mezzane, near Verona, which has been renowned for its wine growing traditions since Roman times. The family, which has been farming the vineyards for four generations, has established an important winemaking tradition. Guglielmo Provolo started the business in the early 20^th century when he purchased the land. His son Luigino later expanded the winery despite the difficulties of the Second World War. Marco Provolo, Luigino's successor, modernised the company while upholding tradition, and today he is joined by his children Matteo and Alessia, who continue to innovate while showing respect for their heritage. The vineyards, located at an altitude of 350-450 metres with a south-west aspect, are managed in-house and enjoy a favourable climate with rich, rocky, moist soils. The grapes are harvested by hand.

1. The entire Provolo family looks towards the future but also draws on the experience of four generations.

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The main varieties grown are Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella, Molinara, Raboso Veronese and Oseleta red grapes, and Garganega white grapes. The company produces around 150,000 bottles a year across 14 different labels, including Valpolicella, Ripasso, Amarone and Recioto, and IGT wines that allow for greater experimentation. Provolo's production philosophy is based on a commitment to excellence and quality at every stage of the process, from agronomy through to ageing. The winery uses stainless steel and cement tanks and prolonged ageing in wood to ensure balanced and complex wines. It favours sustainable practices, farming its vineyards organically and using environmentally-friendly cleaning methods, along with eco-friendly packaging. Its main foreign markets are Canada and the United States, though demand from Northern Europe and emerging markets such as Romania and Albania is growing.

1. The ideally located Provolo vineyards are farmed organically by the family itself which harvests the fruit by hand.

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Pasqua, aka the ‘House of the Unconventional’

Founded in Verona in 1925, Pasqua is a historic winery helmed today by the third generation of the Pasqua family. Its headquarters are located in San Felice in the Valpantena area and its main Valpolicella vineyards are located in Montevegro. While the company specialises in Valpolicella wines such as Amarone and Ripasso, it also produces white wines (34.1%), sparkling wines (16.2%) and rosés (8.7%). Innovation and experimentation are central to the philosophy of Pasqua, which stands out for its unconventional approach, as evidenced by its manifesto ‘House of the Unconventional’.

1. Extensive knowledge of the region allows Pasqua to approach the inception (or reinterpretation) of each wine differently.

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Pasqua Vini leverages its extensive knowledge of the region to create distinctive wines, which aim to give a more contemporary image and taste to the wines of Valpolicella and beyond. The winery combines almost 100 years of winemaking tradition with a strong drive for research and experimentation, making Pasqua one of the most forward-looking wineries in the area. Pasqua is certainly among the most important ambassadors of Veneto wines. The winery is active in 70 countries and in 2023 was among the leading Italian wineries in terms of exports (87.6%) and turnover (60.9 million euro).

1. Present-day chairman Umberto Pasqua has the help of his sons Riccardo (CEO) and Alessandro (President of the Pasqua USA division) to run the business.

Cantina Valpolicella Negrar, the birthplace of Amarone

Cantina Valpolicella Negrar was founded in 1933 and is located in the heart of the Valpolicella Classico zone. It currently has 240 member growers who sustainably farm over 700 hectares of vineyards located mainly in the hills, more than 100 of them certified organic. The wines are divided into two lines, the premium Domìni Veneti and Cantina di Negrar, and the winery focuses on producing high quality wines which best capture the essence of the region. Production totals approximately 9.5 million bottles a year and includes Valpolicella wines: Amarone, whose name was coined in the 1930s by the winery, Ripasso, Recioto, Valpolicella Classico and other Veronese DOC zones.

1. The modern ageing cellar at the Cantina Valpolicella Negrar is designed to house fine wines such as Amarone, Ripasso and Recioto.

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In 1987, Cantina Valpolicella Negrar launched a quality-focused project which became known as ‘Domìni Veneti’. It was the first to be dedicated to recognising the best of Valpolicella Classico whose production amounts to 1.4 million bottles. Its current management features chairman Giampaolo Brunelli, director and winemaker Daniele Accordini, sales director Eva Maria Vanajas and marketing and communications director Michele Battistoni. The winery's key strength is its short supply chain and the main varieties it farms are Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella, as well as other native and non-native varieties such as Spigamonti, Dindarella and Oseleta.

1. At the Cantina Valpolicella di Negrar there is a small but interesting exhibition – the appassimento museum.

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Every year, over 30,000 quintals of the main indigenous varieties are brought to the Cantina so that they can undergo the appassimento process, making Cantina Valpolicella Negrar the largest producer of Amarone della Valpolicella Classica. Amarone was born in the original location of the wine cooperative through a ‘mistake’ made during the winemaking process for a Recioto. Originally, only Recioto was produced in Valpolicella. Once the fermentation process was complete, the yeasts transformed the sugars into alcohol, giving the Recioto a dry and bitter taste, which is why Amarone was originally called Recioto Secco or Amaro. The birth of Amarone is shrouded in mystery. Legend has it that it dates back to 1936 when Adelino Lucchese, the cellar master at the Cantina Sociale Valpolicella, tasted a glass of Recioto tapped from a barrel that had been forgotten in the winery and exclaimed: ‘This is not an Amaro, it is an Amarone’. 

For a long time Recioto was considered more prestigious than Amarone and it took many decades for Amarone to establish itself on the national and international scene as one of the best red dessert wines of all time. The first label and the first sales document date back to 1938 however Amarone was only actively sold from 1953 onwards by Valpolicella Negrar. In 1968, the first production specifications were approved and Amarone was granted DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) status. Sales of Amarone and the winery's other wines are split roughly evenly between Italy and overseas, with export destinations including the United States, UK, Germany, Scandinavia and Russia. 

Cantina Biscardo, wines with character and international appeal

Cantina Biscardo, founded in 1878 in Bussolengo by Terenzio Biscardo, began as a wine supplier for Alpine troops during the First World War and evolved into a company dedicated exclusively to wine production. The founder’s sons Pompilio and Luigi expanded the range of wines to include Valpolicella, Bardolino, Merlot and Amarone. The company grew and expanded internationally, reaching Germany, England, America and other markets.

Biscardo Wines is run from Verona by brothers Maurizio and Martino, with the valuable support of Maddalena Biscardo.

Today, the winery is managed by Maurizio, Martino and Maddalena (Martino's daughter) and produces about 6 million bottles a year. The wines produced in Valpolicella are Ripasso and Amarone Classico Superiore and the labels combine creativity, innovation, respect for the region and an international vision with skilful use of appassimento and wood. The production philosophy prioritises quality at every stage of the process, with a constant focus on respect for the environment. The aim is to achieve consistent quality and therefore be able to respond to the needs of international markets with wines that have a strong regional identity and their own persona. Biscardo wines are distributed worldwide. In Europe, they can be found in markets such as Denmark, Germany, England, Ireland, Holland, Belgium, Spain and France and in eastern countries such as Poland, Albania and Estonia. Their reach also extends beyond Europe with exports to the US, South America, Canada, Singapore, Thailand, Vietnam, China, Australia and Mozambique.

At the end of the 19th century, the Biscardo family had interests in textiles and viticulture while grandmother Teresa ran the ‘Tre Corone’ hotel in Posta.

Antiche Terre Venete, a seamless fusion of tradition and innovation

In the heart of the Valpantena, one of Veneto's most renowned winegrowing areas, lies Antiche Terre Venete, a family-run winery with a history of passion and dedication to wine. Founded jointly in 2009 by the Sancassani and Degani families, the winery covers over 70 hectares of vineyards located in Sezano, a hillside town that rises from 150 to 600 metres above sea level and benefits from the cool air currents flowing off the Lessini Mountains.
The winery is a seamless fusion of tradition and innovation. Luciano Sancassani brings his experience in vineyard management whilst winemaker Davide Degani handles the winemaking process and packaging. They are supported by Roberta and Riccardo, who look after marketing and sales respectively. This family synergy guarantees a constant quest for quality and commitment to producing fine wines.

1. Luciano Sancassani and Riccardo Degani brought together their knowledge and passion to create Antiche Terre Venete.

The vineyards are defined by schist soils which are ideal for vines due to their ability to absorb minerals and valuable substances. The red grape varieties farmed include Corvina, Corvinone and Rondinella and annual production totals approximately 1,300,000 bottles.
The company's production ethos revolves around minimal intervention both in the vineyard and in the cellar in order to preserve the purity of the product. Harvesting is carried out almost exclusively by hand, with particular attention paid to the selection of grapes for appassimento. Antiche Terre Venete stands out for its flagship wines: Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG, Ripasso Superiore DOC and Ripasso Biologico. The wines, which mirror the Valpolicella area, have achieved significant recognition and are enjoyed in major markets such as Scandinavia and the United States. The winery combines family heritage with a modern and innovative vision, crafting wines that tell the story and the unique character of this fascinating wine region.

The vineyards of Antiche Terre Venete cover more than 50 hectares, 15 of them in the natural amphitheatre of Sezano. 

Rubinelli Vajol and its unmistakable characters traits

Vajol’s vineyards, located in the centre of the historic Valpolicella area, are quintessentially regional with their ancient farmhouse, winery and landscape of indigenous vineyards, dry stone walls and olive, almond and cherry trees. The wine produced here encapsulates this gentle beauty through the slow ripening of the grapes in a sunny vale, their drying and their maturation in oak barrels housed in the cellar hewn out of tuff. The winery has 10 hectares of vines and its soils comprise calcareous marl dating back millions of years. Ideal for controlling the natural vigour of the vines, the soils have the ability to retain water which supports balanced grape growth. The wines produced here are renowned for their elegance and complexity.

1. The old farmhouse, the cellar, the Corte Sant’Anna and the vine-clad landscape of Vaiol with its dry-stone walls known locally as ‘marogne’ and its olive, almond and cherry trees, epitomise the beauty of the Valpolicella area.

All the fruit comes from the vineyards surrounding Corte Sant'Anna, lending the wines unmistakable quality and identity. The soils which are limestone and tufa with varying amounts of clay and skeletal soil, influence the typicality of the wines. Sustainability is a core value at the winery, which has eliminated herbicides and synthetic fertilisers in favour of mechanical weeding and green manure. The practice, which involves sowing and burying more than 20 grass and legume species, improves soil vitality and enriches natural organic substance. Harvesting is done entirely by hand to ensure optimal results. Every choice, both in the field and in the cellar, is guided by the teachings of Prof. Roberto Ferrarini, who has passed on the importance of maintaining excellence in wine production. The Vajol countryside is not just a wine region but an example of how tradition and sustainability can merge to create wines of extraordinary quality. The company's main markets are Italy, USA, Switzerland, Germany, Holland, China, Canada, Austria, Belgium, UK, France, Hungary, Czech Republic, Thailand and Vietnam.

Valpolicella is undoubtably one of the most renowned and prestigious wine regions, both in Italy and worldwide. Local production is reaching new heights thanks to a combination of centuries-old traditions and technological innovation, with a growing focus on sustainability and on the quality of the end product. The arrival of new generations has been fundamental as has the desire to make Amarone and Ripasso more contemporary. The wines, which ran the risk of becoming anachronistic, have benefited from a vision more geared towards freshness and elegance. They thus continue to best represent the area’s potential, not to mention the versatility of Valpolicella Doc and the complexity and depth of flavour of Recioto.

The first document found in connection with the Vajol cru dates back to 1635.