Georgia, where Orange is the new tack

Badagoni, a leading light in Georgia’s modern wine industry

Giorgi Salakaia, a child of Soviet-ruled Georgia, has always dreamt of making his free, tradition-rich country a talking point. His aspirations as a winemaking entrepreneur materialised in 2006 when he founded his estate in the flagship region of Kakheti, in  Zemo Khodasheni. Badagoni was built from the ground up, based on a desire for excellence.

Giorgi Salakaia, Badagoni’s founder.

Pioneering cutting-edge winemaking in Georgia, in collaboration with the Italian institute Enosis Meraviglia and its head winemaker Dr Donato Lanati, Salakaia works at the winery with the talented winemaker Sandro Kumsiashvili. Together, they produce 13 million bottles of high quality wines. Delivering on the promise of excellence – promoted by continuous research – and despite the property’s significant 500-hectare footprint, of which 400 have been planted – head viticulturist Shorena Bochorishvili cares for each locality as if it were an estate in its own right.

Having honed his knowledge of the clay or limestone soils, their high alluvium content and pH level leaning towards alkaline, Bochorishvili has adapted vine plantings to suit each zone. The vibrancy and aromatics in the north due to the effects of elevation; the generous south with its Mediterranean feel and alluvium; the east with its mild sunshine for the sweet wines; and the woodland-sheltered west yielding freshness and biodiversity.

Although each single vineyard is destined to produce sophisticated blends, the high-end offerings ‘Traditions d’Alaverdi’ come from the historic terroir near the Alaverdi Monastery. Like a lot of Kakheti wineries, Badagoni focuses 60% of its wines on red from Saperavi. The balance is made up of white wines, primarily from Rkatsiteli, but also other wines from Kakhuri, Mtsvane and Kisi. The Mukuzani and Tsinandali areas are treated individually and here, tradition is entwined with a touch of modernity. Alongside the wines fermented in the European style, in French or American barrels, honouring Georgia’s rich heritage implies fermenting the wines traditionally in Qvevri, in the historic cellars of the 11^th-century Alaverdi monastery. This cultural treasure was restored by Badagoni in 2006.

The influence of Italian consultancy can be seen in the Charmat method sparkling wines produced by Badagoni. It was the first producer to use Mtsvane from Kakheti for the Brut. A traditional method sparkling wine is also poised to exit the company’s cellars.

Although it does not subscribe to any particular endorsement, Badagoni is mindful of the environment and responsible techniques, and leans towards more sustainable methods of winemaking.

Ultimately, Badagoni’s aim is to promote traditional Georgian winemaking which is why it created the Georgian Qvevri School Academy in Ikalto (Kakheti). It is the first institution of its kind where the wines are not referred to as orange but Qvevri. Its purpose is to grow awareness of these glistening, amber-hued wines with their aromas of candied stone fruits, smoke and wax nuances, hinting at a world of richness yet often reined in by some real tension with a trace of sourness due to the influence of the tannins. A case in point is the Khikhvi Qvevri which contrasts with the style of ample reds displaying true robustness beneath the velvety softness of the candied, spicy fruit, such as the Saperavi Réserve.

Winemakers Sandro Kumsiashvili and Paolo Lavagna in Badagoni’s tasting room.

Alaverdi Monastery Cellar.

Giuaani, ballasted like its Qvevris since 1894

Giuaani is a family-run winery whose history dates back to 1894, when the first Qvevris were introduced and the family began to produce and sell wine on a boutique scale. The name Giuaani stems from the family’s name, Giuashvili. The modern-day company Giuaani was established in 2014 and since then has produced approximately 150,000 to 250,000 bottles annually under the leadership of Maria Giuashvili. The head viticulturist is the young and talented Giorgi Jmukhadze who works alongside the consultant winemaker and Georgian professor Davit Chichua.

Giuaani winemaker, Giorgi Jmukhadze.

The family owns some 20 hectares in the village of Manavi and also has some long-term partnerships with local and regional farmers.

The main grape varieties used are Kakhuri Mtsvane, Saperavi, Rkatsiteli, Khikhvi and Kisi. The largest share is cornered by Kakhuri Mtsvane because Manavi is an appellation for the varietal. Most of the vineyards were planted in the 2010s, but a small proportion is approaching 50 years in age.

Production is 70% white and orange wine with a balance of reds, over half of which is shipped to export markets: Germany, Italy, Greece, the Netherlands, Czech Republic, United Kingdom, United States, Canada, Japan and South Korea. The export focus is hardly surprising due to the enthusiasm of consumers around the world for local specialities. The Mtsvane, for example, macerates for 6 months in the true tradition of amber wine, resulting in a rich, apricot-like style with nuances of candied orange. It is dry yet ample and extrovert with its spicy signature style and mouth-coating feel from the tannin backbone. The winery does not just produce curiosities from a bygone era – it also uses new oak to mature some of its high-end wines for up to 6 months. An example of this is Manavi with its honeyed flowers, spicy tints and stony nuance – a wine that shows incredible body and freshness and makes the perfect partner for food. Some red wines from varietals like Saperavi and Cabernet-Sauvignon also spend time in Qvevris. A new addition to the range is a Pet-Nat in small quantities: Kakhuri Mtsvane for the white and Cabernet Sauvignon for the rosé, whilst the future Tsitska varietal sparkling wine made using the traditional method is still maturing on the lees.

The Giuaani winery boutique hotel, surrounded by vineyards.

The modern Giuaani winery which is equipped with stainless steel tanks, traditional Georgian Qvevri and oak barrels.

Ilia Estate, a generational crossroads

Where the bed of the river Durujui cuts through black schist 8 metres deep, on land known as Kvareli that has witnessed several generations of winegrowers, a new story began a decade ago. A new generation was born from the encounter between Swiss entrepreneur Thierry Fontannez and the young winemaker Vano Shiukashvili. The brand name Taoba in fact means generation. At Ilia Estate, there has been no generational clash and the winery has successfully combined its ancient roots with a modern twist.

Bottles and barrels in the maturation cellar at Ilia Estate.

On 80 ha planted with 60% of red grape varieties, viz Georgia’s king of grape varieties, Saperavi, the whites are not grown on the schist soils but express themselves on sand and chalk. The company has managed to retain its traditional roots by planting the classic Rkatsiteli and Kisi grape varieties. As intimated in our introduction, Fontannez feels that Georgian wines are already a challenge to understand due to the names of their grape varieties and regionality, so that adding designated sites or too much varietal diversity would only add to the confusion. If customers know where Georgia is located, part of the battle has already been won.

This is relevant here because 80% of Taoba’s wines are exported and although they are mostly sold in the hospitality industry, focusing on a few impactful values and symbols is much more worthwhile than over-complicated labels and it speaks louder than words. In the main, the style remains traditional because the white grape varieties are made in Qvevris as orange wine. The red mirrors its birthplace in the Alzani river valley, which cuts across Kakheti. It is made in the Kakheti style, also in amphorae, with lengthy soaking and fermentation. A Kisi-based Pet-Nat rounds off the range, but Taoba’s overriding aim is to retain clarity. In itself, the area is a hidden treasure surrounded by 500 ha of woodland in a site conducive to diversity. So why make things complicated? The best policy is transparency to avoid the pitfall of creating a range where consumers can’t see the forest for the trees!

The orange wine is distinctive and driven by candied orange and bergamot tones, leaning towards a delicate oxidative style. Supple and lifted by a refreshing trace of tension, its crunchy tannins deliver mandarin skin and sweet spices with balsamic undertones. In the Saperavi, the candied fruit entwines with smoke and spices in a smooth velvety cocoon with sustained, generous and spicy acidity, pronounced, chocolaty tannins, and a juicy, mouth-watering core.

The winery does not just preserve biodiversity – it also farms organically and is certified carbon zero. In addition to producing wine, Ilia Estate also has a hotel and a restaurant.

A Qvevri cellar at Ilia Estate.

Winemakers Thierry Fontannaz and Vano Shiukashvili in the Qvevri cellar in Kvareli.

Marani Tsereteli, an aesthetic tribute to Zurab Tsereteli

Tsereteli Winery was created in 2016 by the family of the same name and is run by Vasil Tsereteli and Levan Tsirgvava as a tribute to the sculptor and architect Zurab Tsereteli. The labels are adorned with the artist’s work, and some of them are also named after him. The estate’s philosophy embraces Georgian winemaking traditions yet also introduces modern techniques under the guidance of winemaker Aleksandre Japaridze. Given the artistic spirit that reigns here, the wines lean towards a certain aesthetic pleasure.

Some vineyard blocks at Tsereteli winery are over 68 years old.

Located in the heart of Kakheti, including the sites of Kindzmarauli and Mukuzani, the vineyards thrive on alluvium and clay-limestone soils, between 400 and 700 metres above sea level, combining the spirit of the sun and unspoilt vibrancy. The winery also owns vineyards in Imereti. Some vineyard blocks are over 68 years old.

The winery grows a varied array of native grape varieties such as Saperavi, Ojaleshi, Chkhaveri, Kisi, Mtsvane, Rkatsiteli, Tsitska, Tsolikouri, Aleksandrouli and Mujuretuli, shared equally between red and white varietals. A conservation vineyard is dedicated to rare, endangered Georgian grape varieties and makes an active contribution to preserving a heritage from another era.

This heritage is also reflected in the use of Qvevris, for the whites (amber wines) and reds, although Tsereteli Winery combines traditional and modern winemaking techniques in a balancing act between typicity, complexity and purity, as exemplified by the Qvevris, French oak casks and stainless steel tanks. The winery has broadened its portfolio to include rosé wines that offer an elegant, refreshing style. Diversification is continuing by exploring traditional method sparkling wines from Georgian grape varieties such as Tsitska and Tsolikouri.

Tsereteli Winery has developed a robust distribution network and is represented in Georgia, China, the United States and Poland. Plans for accommodation and a table d’hôte will soon materialise, allowing customers to discover flagship labels like the Kisi Qvevri where the fleshy appeal, saline edge and spices resonate well with the underlying firmness. The vibrant, exotic Mtsvane Zurab Tsereteli with its clean feel gives the tastebuds a wake-up call, whilst the Saperavi, also named after the artist, is a generous, profound red with racy exuberance and a delight to drink, where nothing is superfluous to requirements.

After being boycotted by Russia, their leading customer, just like the Moldovan Republic, Georgian wines are now channelling their energy into conquering new key destinations like the UK and the USA, but also Poland and Japan. Let’s hope that their reputation, which has been gaining traction for a decade, will continue for many years to come.

The labels are adorned with the artist's work.

Tsereteli winery grows an array of native grape varieties.