By Isabelle Escande - Photographs: courtesy of the estates, posted on 16 September 2024
Times have certainly changed since the Adega do Cartaxo co-operative winery, which is celebrating its 70th anniversary, was founded. From a business with 22 vine growers mainly selling its wines in bulk, it now boasts 168 partners with revenue in the millions and wines that sell across the globe. We take a look back over this Portuguese success story.
The present-day Adega Cooperativa do Cartaxo now covers 800 hectares located in Tejo, one of Portugal’s oldest wine regions, 55 kilometres from Lisbon. The vineyards are divided into two main areas, explains Pedro Gil, who has been the company’s winemaker since 1998 – the ‘Campo’, home to alluvial soils offering good drainage near the river Tejo where the climate is moderate, which is conducive to producing white, rosé and sparkling wines; and the ‘Bairro’, a more complex area with small vineyard blocks where the edaphoclimatic conditions are varied. In this zone suitable for crafting red wines – which account for most of the winery’s output (80% compared with 20% for the whites) – clay-limestone soils are the most widespread, although there are small pockets of sandstone.
Winemaker Pedro Gil.
Twelve million kilos of grapes are harvested every year in this impressive vineyard in the centre of Portugal. Pedro Gil’s technical staff are mindful to provide constant support for the grape growers belonging to the co-operative, which produces ten million litres of wine annually. Mirroring the company’s varietal range, its portfolio is extensive, running the gamut from single-vineyard reds and single varietals to sweet wines, late-harvest sparklings and limited editions. Native varieties like Fernão Pires and Arinto (for the whites), Castelão and Trincadeira (for the reds), grow alongside international cultivars like Chardonnay, Syrah and Merlot. Importantly, this noble range of varieties did not happen by chance – around two decades ago, the co-operative decided to replace the high-cropping hybrids that were ubiquitous in its vineyards with varieties producing lower yields, but much higher quality.
Due to their native vineyard sites, “our wines have a very distinctive identity”, comments the co-operative’s sales director, Fausto Silva. “We produce balanced grapes boasting good acidity that yield complex, fresh and harmonious wines on the palate with a persistent finish. They are very pleasant to drink and also offer excellent value for money”. It has been twenty years or so since the winery first began to renovate its facilities and since then it has invested 16 million euros in modernising them, at every stage of production. New equipment and winemaking procedures, for instance, have been introduced to promote quality.
Fausto Silva, the winery’s sales director.
Today, “our white and rosé wines are all fermented in open tanks”, explains Gil. “The fruit is completely destemmed to avoid any bitterness, then delicately crushed to release the juice and start maceration. The grapes are then pressed using pneumatic presses, with or without pre-fermentation skin contact soaking, which allows us to control the colour of the must and its flavours”. Next comes juice clarification then fermentation at controlled temperatures to prevent any deterioration and retain control over optimal aroma development.
The red winemaking process also involves careful monitoring of fermentation because the quality of the wine is contingent upon controlling the temperature of the tanks. Unlike the whites, however, three different winemaking methods are used: fermentation in mechanical tanks; classic soaking with pumping over in closed tanks; and the Ganimede method, a patented winemaking system that leverages the natural potential of the carbon dioxide released during alcoholic fermentation to optimise consistent extraction of the compounds from the pomace and craft a smoother wine.
The co-operative’s new approach, based on attention to detail and modernisation of the facilities, is also mirrored in the maturation phase of its wines. Over the past few years, it has considerably ramped up its investment in barrels – its cellar currently boasts over 1,000 casks, virtually all of them made from French oak.
Adega Cooperativa do Cartaxo focuses on quality, every step of the way. At international level, in both traditional and emerging markets, it is now aiming to introduce mid-range wines and high-end pours crafted in a modern, sophisticated style. The winery has come a long way from its original production-driven strategy. Clearly, its new growth strategy – based on quality, diversification and differentiation – is reaping rewards as export sales have surged by 550% over the past fifteen years, stresses Silva. “In 2008, exports accounted for approximately 7% of our turnover – now that has risen to 26%”. It is a great example of the present-day success garnered by Portuguese wines on the international stage. The co-operative’s wines can be found on several continents and are exported primarily to France, Poland, China, the United States, Brazil and Switzerland.
With a climate that is neither too hot nor too oceanic, the co-operative’s grapes are particularly well-balanced.
With its appealing image, dynamic PR strategy, site-expressive wines and wine tourism activities, the co-operative has successfully established a place for itself, not just for the quality of its wines but for its modern narrative and informed marketing choices that align with current consumer demand and consumption patterns. Its latest plans involve producing low-alcohol wines, organic bottlings and a high-end label produced entirely from traditional regional grape varieties, explains Silva. Viewed as one of the most significant producers in the Tejo region, the co-operative continues along its successful path and judging by the countless medals it has been awarded recently in international competitions, it is undeniably heading in the right direction.
Pedro Gil was recently voted "winemaker o the year" at the Vinhos Do Teja gala event.
