Wine of Moldova and ONVV along with industry players such as Château Purcari are conducting in-depth research into varietals, particularly into Moldovan crosses – Viorica, Floricica, Alb de Onitcani, Codrinschi and Riton – and Rară Neagră. This latter varietal, which has been adopted as a flagship grape, has a stronger image than in its Romanian homeland where it is known as Băbească Neagră.

Moldovan versions remain vibrant and can proudly sit alongside a Beaujolais Cru or a Gamay from Auvergne. Rară Neagră can also be blended with Fetească Neagră or international counterpoints.  

Fetească Neagră retains greater vibrancy than in its native Romania, showing semi-aromatic characters coupled with good finesse. It also meshes well with other varietals in blends. International grape varieties invariably generate demand in price brackets significantly lower than for their prestigious West European or New World models. They illustrate Moldova’s potential for producing styles that offer a good rendition of their varietals.

Sparkling wines are fashionable and all the producers we spoke to either produce some or plan to. Wine of Moldova encourages this vision because the wines are a profitable source of exports. Though few and far between, ice wines are often nicely crafted and intriguing. Fortified wines deserve attention because this year they witnessed the most surprising surge in export volumes, and values. When it comes to USP, the Viorica varietal leads the way and makes a compelling case for Moldova to promote it in the way Argentina has Torrontes.

Consumers are looking for new flavours and Moldova is still considered as an exotic destination for wine. With the ability to produce significant volumes of reasonably priced wine from international and Romanian cultivars, Moldova will undoubtedly recruit new markets at a time when the cost of living crisis is forcing people to rein in their spending.

Apriori Winery, capturing the zeitgeist with a fresh identity

Tasting wines at the Apriori winery.

Apriori Winery is a newcomer in the Codrii Tigheciului area – an unspoilt nature reserve located in the Cantemir and Taraclia regions in southern Moldova. The winery is on a constant quest to promote a youthful image as evidenced by its lifestyle-centric marketing strategy promoting discovery and also its deep-rooted environmental values. In 2019, it therefore launched the Marathon Eco Wine. Similarly, the entire crop is transported in electric vehicles. The winery has also secured a listing in the Guinness Book of Records along with young Moldovan sommelier Daniel Frumasachi, now based in Copenhagen. Frumasachi successfully ‘sabered’ 49 bottles of Apriori sparkling wine in 30 seconds. The winery is also pioneering alternative packaging by marketing its Charmat method sparkling wine in cans, along with a range of three still wines, as part of its environmentally-friendly protocol. Apriori produces ‘Divin’ brandy and traditional Rachiu from plums, whilst its yellow melon-based Rachiu strays of the well-trodden path. In the wine space, it also distils Rachiu from Sauvignon blanc and Chardonnay.

In just 30 seconds, sommelier Daniel Frumusache opened 49 bottles of Apriori sparkling wine using the "sabrage" method, earning him a place in the guinness world records.

In 2019, Apriori wine hosted their first eco wine marathon where the grapes were picked using electric cars.

Château Purcari, probably the most awarded producer in Eastern and Central Europe

Founded in 1827, Château Purcari boasts an impressive collection of accolades, making it unique in Central and Eastern Europe. Its efforts to become Moldova’s most prestigious wine exporter with a presence in over 25 markets have allowed it to follow in the footsteps of its predecessors who won the first gold medal at the Paris World’s Fair in 1878.

Members of the production team at Chateau Purcari.

The founder and current managing director of the Purcari Wineries Group, Victor Bostan, can rely on the advice of winemaker Federico Giotto and the expertise of research and development director Gheorghe Arpentin – the former chairman of the ONVV – to craft wines that encapsulate the grape varieties and the company’s brand image. All the wines are marketed under the Stefan Vodă PGI, a high-prestige area in the South of the country where the climate is continental, moderate, dry and cool with the influence of the Black Sea and the river Nistru. The carbonated chernozem* lies over a mosaic of 25 soil profiles with emergences of tertiary reddish deposits rich in trace elements defining them geologically. The winery is currently establishing connections between the quality of the wines and this geological treasure trove by drilling down and mapping the soil types – over the next three years it will reveal its individual vineyard sites. By continuing its innovation and research, Château Purcari is developing an extensive programme of clonal selection and conservation – Rară Neagră 2.0. In addition to the varietal – which is highly valued at Purcari – the vineyards are planted to the following varieties: Merlot, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Grigio, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Saperavi, Aligoté, Gewürztraminer, Malbec, Fetească Neagră, Fetească Albă, Cabernet-Sauvignon, Viorica, Syrah, Fetească Regală and Carmenère. The vineyard covers a total 300 hectares with vine age averaging at 15 years old – the oldest plantings date back to 2004. The varietal range is split in the classic way for the PGI Stefan Vodă, a region renowned for its red wines (70%) with a balance of whites. Château Purcari has also proven that it excels in the production of international varietals.

Purcari winery was awarded the grand prix for wine production by the governement of the republic of Moldova.

The company is a keen practitioner of innovation for its sparkling, orange and ice wines, but also for its more conventional ranges. It has also released a new range of wines – Native – which will become organic in 2025. Its Freedom Blend, launched in 2011 as a tribute to the independence of the Republic of Moldova, Ukraine and Georgia, has garnered widespread appeal for its fleshy, velvety style imbued with spicy black fruit and coffee. Wines in the Purcari 1827 range – like the Romanian varietal Fetească Neagră – continue to be faithful renditions of their grape varieties, whilst the Nocturne series is designed for lovers of vibrant aromatics.

Wine tourism at Château Purcari.

Harvesting grapes at Château Purcari.

Around the turn of the century, Château Purcari replanted 250 hectares of vineyards.

Vartely, twenty years’ support for Moldovan wine

Although some wines under this brand were first launched in 1996, Château Vartely Winery was founded in 2004. It was one of the first companies to market wines with a protected geographical indication. The winery is located in Orhei, 50 kilometres from the capital city, near the largest and most significant nature reserve in the country. Over the past five years, it has doubled its share of quality wines, consolidating its position in the domestic market and in over 25 countries around the world. Château Vartely boasts 520 hectares in total, including 150 situated in the central part of the country, PGI Codru and 30 hectares in the southern region of Bugeac, in PGI Valul lui Traian.

The name Vartely stems from the name of the town Orhei which in Hungarian means "place of the fortress".

In 2023, Château Vartely was honoured by the State with the highest award for winery of the year, adding to its impressive 350 medals garnered over the years. Its success can be ascribed to its head winemaker Valentin Vrânceanu and his teams. They work with a richly woven fabric of grape varieties planted on classic leached chernozem soils: Cabernet-Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Rară Neagră, Fetească Neagră, Syrah, Malbec, Saperavi, Traminer rosé, Muscat de Hambourg, Muscat Ottonel, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Fetească Regală and Sauvignon Blanc. The wines are made in a cutting-edge, temperature-controlled winery housing an impressive collection of 470 barrels and facilities for making Charmat and traditional method sparkling wines. Château Vartely’s winery is already part of the ‘Sustainable Wine of Moldova’ pilot project conducted by the ONVV. Its financial investments will further contribute to promoting the principles of sustainable winegrowing – the ultimate goal is to certify wines shipped to the Union European market as sustainable.

Vartely's annual production is in the range of 4,5 million bottles of wine.

Aurelius Winery, in the name of the founder

Despite its young age – it was founded in 2019 – this winery has rapidly achieved benchmark status thanks to its successful track record in international markets and the medals it has garnered. Its name refers to that of its founder and owner, Morar Aurel. The estate is located in the Codru area of Nisporeni, Moldova’s central PGI which accounts for 60% of its vineyards. The name Codru alludes to the local oak and linden forests which create a microclimate in an area criss-crossed by valleys and small rivers. Here, the soil is more aerated than chernozem and ranges from clay to silt with higher drainage capacity. Aurelius Winery produces both still and sparkling wines. Vineyard management focuses on sustainability and ecology, with synthetic weedkillers and fertilisers outlawed. Individual vineyards form the basis, with each grape variety suited to a particular block and care taken to reflect the style of the GI and its microclimates, along with varietal definition. The barrels come from France. Aurelius Chardonnay is an ample, textured, rich wine, whilst the 2018 Cabernet-Sauvignon is still very youthful with its structured, chewy feel providing grip. The 2021 Fetească Neagră delivers perfumes of liquorice, black fruit, coffee and vanilla in a rich, concentrated, spicy style. The 2023 Muscat Alb Dulce is a sweet sparkling wine melding peach and musky aromatics with an almost meringue-like texture. Its 2023 Rosé Dulce counterpart is charmingly floral, fruity and fragrant.

Morar Aurel, the founder of Aurelius, in his vineyards.

Aurelius has ghosen to make wines in the town of nisporeni, in the protected geographical indicarion of codru.

Podgoria VIN, respect for the past but without the archaic language

Podgoria VIN was built on the foundations of a large winery dating back to the communist era in 1977. The family-run business took shape in 1999 to take over privatisation. It released its first vintage in 2003 in its new premises. It wouldn’t be long before the first medals were won, in 2007. Located in the GI Valul lui Traian area, the present-day estate boasts 450 hectares under vine and remains a family-owned company belonging to the Balan family. The region’s moderate continental climate ensures that winters remain mild and frost-free but also creates a contrast with the heat of the summer. Around fifteen grape varieties thrive on the famous chernozem soils: Cabernet- Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Fetească Neagră, Fetească Albă, Fetească Regală, Floricica, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Saperavi, Alibernet, Carmenère, Kerner, Viorica, Aligoté and Muscat. The vineyards are farmed sustainably with regard to waste water usage and general waste. The winery also promotes local wildlife and shows concern for biodiversity. The ranges of wine are called Libera, Genesis, Blossom and Aborigi, the latter of which recalls the connections with the native area and its forebears. The same ethos guides the choice of grape varieties from the Romanian world, either as single varietals, in blends or with international grape varieties. This is often customary in Moldova due to its proven potential with these cultivars. The 2023 Aborigi Fetească Albă - Fetească Regală is fruity, exotic and spicy with stony undertones whilst remaining fleshy, vibrant and balanced. The fusion of local roots and modernity is exemplified by the choice of screwcaps. Blossom is also a single varietal made from the local grape Viorica. It is intense, perfumed and heady with its balsamic floral aromatics midway between herbs, shiso, fresh grapes and musky aromas. Libera expresses a sense of freedom, the desire to cross borders with international grape varieties. Here, Sauvignon blanc displays an archetypal New World style with its herbaceous aromatics and clean, crisp palate offering instant gratification.

Dumi Balan, the export and brand manager at Podgoria Vin, drives innovartion, sustainability and modernity which are crucial to the spirit of Podgoria wines.

Feteascā Neagrā, growing here at Podgoria Vin in the valui lui traian region, retains greater vibrancy than in its native romania.

Sălcuta, an odyssey in search of the finest Moldovan wine

Despite its low-key status on the Moldovan wine scene, Sălcuta boasts an impressive history and newly-minted credentials. The achievement is made all the more remarkable by the scale of this family-owned property which now covers 450 hectares and produces around 10 million bottles a year. This substantial, unbroken estate is situated in the PGI Stefan Vodă area where the Black Sea and the river Nistru contribute to the mild climate. A 70-km or 1.15-hour journey from the capital Chişinău takes you to the Pâslaru family’s home. They will tell you that winegrowing started here in around 1706, in a village known for its willow trees, hence the Romanian name Sălcuta. The village’s winery would not start to make a name for itself though until 1950, when it welcomed local winegrowers and their grapes. The present-day story began in 1995 and was one of the first to be written in the Republic of Moldova. Eugen Pâslaru focused wholeheartedly on his passion for vines and wine before passing on his ethos to his son Sergiu. The third generation – Dina and Titus – is beginning to immerse itself in the family’s love of winegrowing, joining Sergiu and his wife Cornelia. Sergiu was responsible for modernising the vineyards and production facilities. He also led the winery towards sustainable farming in a bid to become 100% sustainable and socially responsible. The winery was certified ISO 22000 and BRC in 2019 for its overall food safety standards, which has opened many doors in export markets. The 15-strong varietal range features both international grapes - Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Merlot and Cabernet- Sauvignon – and the Romanian cultivars Fetească Albă, Fetească Regală, Fetească Neagră and Rară Neagră. There are also successful local varieties like the perfumed Viorica grape. The grapes with a ‘local flavour’ enhance recognition in international markets. The winery’s iconic ranges are Epizod, AlterNative and ENO, whose names always hide a message from Eugen. He has been searching for his Holy Grail since an early age, like an odyssey, and his mindset focuses on mirroring local traditions and a form of spirituality – in other words, the finest Moldova’s wines have to offer. Among its flagship range, the Sauvignon Blanc Fumé is ever-popular with Moldovan consumers. The 2018 Eno Eclectic Red stands out for its spicy black fruit and sense of fulfilment. This is an ample, fleshy wine with the sheen of maturity yet still a kind of continuing freshness.

Stefan Voda, the location for Sālcuta's vineyards, offers ideal conditions for ripening grapes, with its unique soil composition, south and east aspects and its proximity to the black sea. 

Sālcua winery is located in the Cāuseni distrcit in south-eastern Moldova, also known as "the heart of Moldovan wines".

Sergiu Pislaru, who inherited the passion and ambition of his father, has implemented a process of modernisation at Sālcuta.