Appellation
By Jean-Paul Burias – Photographs: courtesy of the estates, posted on 25 November 2024
They are some of France’s most beautiful villages. The vibrant array of vineyard sites and styles within the generic appellation Côtes-du-Rhône form a constellation of 22 designations all named after them. But this unique feature is not their only attraction – they also show stellar quality and great appeal. Join us on a guided tour.
Notably, a major milestone for the appellation: in September 2024, Laudun was officially recognized as the 18th cru of the Côtes-du-Rhône, crowning years of collective and qualitative efforts, particularly with its characterful reds and its whites renowned for their remarkable freshness.
The foolproof formula embodies perfect balance. Over the past few years, the appellation has undergone a sea-change and secured a significant place alongside the legendary names that are Hermitage, Condrieu, Côte-Rôtie and Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Despite its relatively small footprint of 8,000 hectares located entirely in the southern part of the Rhone Valley, 22 villages have been singled out for their specific qualities and warrant a complementary geographical designation: Chusclan, Gadagne, Laudun, Massif-d’Uchaux, Nyons, Plan-de-Dieu, Puyméras, Roaix, Rochegude, Rousset-les-Vignes, Sablet, Saint-Andéol, Saint-Gervais, Saint-Maurice, Saint-Pantaléon-les-Vignes, Sainte-Cécile, Séguret, Signargues, Suze-la-Rousse, Vaison-la-Romaine, Valréas and Visan. Within this galaxy, the red wines are defined by the warm characters of Grenache – half the blend – which resonates with its blending partners Syrah and Mourvèdre. The highly aromatic whites and rosés wow with their fine, flavourful and energetic mouthfeel. Such great balance inevitably leads to a place on tables and bars across the globe, piquing the curiosity of patrons drawn to the prices, then bowled over by the pleasure of drinking structured, racy wines, as exemplified by the following six wineries.
Nestled amidst the garrigue, Roc Folassière factors in every aspect of a successful quest. The winery was acquired by the storied Maison M. Chapoutier in 2015, keen to broaden its portfolio by incorporating the remarkable potential of old-vine Grenache and Syrah on felicitous limestone soils. “Our wines reflect our commitment to quality and respect for vines and their characteristics”, stresses the group’s PR officer, Amandine Bodin. “They are made with utmost care so that they become mirrors to their terroirs and comply with the strict criteria for eligibility to the appellation”. The winery boasts a specific microclimate which adds relative freshness to the wines. The vineyards are mostly covered with a mantle of stones and limestone slabs over a clayey matrix and loess soils. Labelled Côtes-du-Rhône Villages Signargues, Agrioto displays distinctive aromas of black fruits like blackberry and blackcurrant, coupled with garrigue notes of thyme and rosemary. The wine is produced in the appellation’s most southerly village, where the climate is markedly Mediterranean, facing the sun. Its clay-limestone and pebble-strewn soils contribute to the richness and depth of Signargues wines. Their tannin structure is generally robust and well-integrated and offers great complexity and length on the palate. “The Côtes-du-Rhône appellation with the village name appended to it is often viewed as an extra guarantee of quality by knowledgeable consumers”, adds Bodin. “The name of the village can enhance recognition and value. It specifies a particular terroir, more restrictive and specific geographical area and often higher quality. Consequently, the wines tend to stand out easier”.
Michel Chapoutier, the owner of Maison Chapoutier and Roc Folassière.
A regional institution, Domaine Escalin has established a firm rooting in the history of Drôme Provençale by perpetuating ancient techniques and traditions with a focus on excellence. At the end of 2022, the property was bought by the Autajon family, owners of the namesake packaging company in Montélimar. Deep pebbles promote drainage in the vineyards and allow the sunshine to warm the soil deep down. The vines bask in a distinctive climate and benefit from the Mistral wind, which cleanses and cools both the leaves and the fruit. The winery farms two different areas – Vergobbi plateau, where pebbles are strewn over clay, and Escalin which is home to characteristic limestone shards over sandy-clay silt. “Appellations play a pivotal role in building up an identity”, explains sales manager Régina Campello. “A village name provides a piece of geographical information, the acclaim and reputation of a place. It offers instant recognition which facilitates sales”. Domaine Escalin’s wines are divided into three segments, in addition to which are sparkling wines. The entry-level range embraces the Poésie d’été rosé – a blend of 60% Grenache and 40% Syrah – the Escale Enchantée white made from 80% Viognier, 10% Roussanne and 10% Marsanne and the red, Promesse, blended from 65% Grenache and 35% Syrah. The intermediary and high-end labels focus on reds and include Secret du Pin, 75% Syrah and 25% Grenache, defined by its fine cherry notes, complex, spice-driven palate and a silky finish with fine-grain tannins. Superbe Idylle, blended from 50% Grenache and 50% Syrah beguiles with its remarkable depth and great intensity driven by black fruit aromas.
The team at Domaine Escalin.
Work in the vineyards at Domaine Escalin.
Domaine Escalin’s winemaker Gwenaëlle Contini and some of her team.
Château Bizard’s impressive history began in 1862. Eugène Missol, the first generation of winegrowers among the current owners, planted vines on hillsides located on the high ground South of the small village of Allan, which has been renowned for growing vines since the 17th century. Situated in the southern part of the Rhone Valley, the winery is home to sub-soils formed of limestone scree over blue marl. Generous sunshine and the Mistral wind provide extremely propitious natural factors. “Our wines can be defined by their structure and its rich tannins along with their good ageability”, comments estate manager Antoine Sohier. “The soils here are riverbed limestone whereas many of our colleagues farm on clayey, pebble or sandy soils. Therefore, our entry-level wines mirror the trademark appellation style with more fruit and an easy-drinking, supple mouthfeel, whilst our high-end labels lean more towards wines produced in more northerly landscapes”. From one village to another, the flavours regularly show concentrated fruit, frequently on the over-ripe side with tertiary aromas of spices when they are matured in oak. “The Côtes-du-Rhône appellation is recognised and visible internationally”, claims Sohier. “But competition is made stiffer by the number of players and a market that is shrinking. Every winery has to establish its own strategy. Our aim is that the appellation is recognised and we work hard to introduce it to fine wine enthusiasts and ensure they enjoy it”.
Marc Lépine, the owner of Château Bizard.
Antoine Sohier and Laurent Joannon of Cjâteau Bizard.
Saint-Gervais, on the right bank of the Rhone, has a typical southern French accent and is one of the 22 Côtes-du-Rhône Villages designations. Its vines are buffeted by the Mistral wind which cools the Mediterranean climate. Its hillsides enjoy a good South-facing aspect and are home to windblown sand, clay-limestone soils and a cooler, windy plateau. Claire Clavel can trace her family’s winegrowing roots back to 1640 and makes it her daily mission to continue a history spanning several generations. With the support of her father Denis Clavel, she farms 100 hectares of vines, prioritising character, authenticity, the environment and preservation of the ecosystem’s biological diversity. “We have a broad collection of wines ranging from Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) to Côtes-du-Rhône Villages Saint-Gervais and Chusclan. Every village has different soil types, promoting great diversity. But there are always the varietal range staples like Grenache and Syrah so typicity is the same. The winegrower’s touch is what makes the difference”. The Côtes-du-Rhône Villages Saint-Gervais Syrius and Cordélia for Chusclan are authentic, structured and complex wines with length on the palate. “Despite what you might think, a village name does not necessarily make things easier for us”, adds Clavel. “Most of our vines are in the Saint-Gervais appellation which is still under the radar – many people mistake it for the namesake town at the foot of Mont Blanc. So you have to make a name for yourself. In 2020, we founded the AOC Saint-Gervais producers’ organisation in order to secure greater awareness of the appellation and publicise it. One of our trump cards is that our wines offer excellent value for money”.
Claire Clavel in her winery.
Denis Clavel.
Remarkable soils and landscapes.
An artisan and master craftsman, Xavier Vignon is never short of initiative, combining entrepreneurship with subtle inspiration. His stints in Champagne and Bordeaux have left a lasting impression on him and he favours the freedom to blend – he starts off with an idea then strives to achieve the best possible end result. By combining different grape varieties – grown on limestone and sandy soils – in the same wine, he instils great complexity and offers an alternative emphasis on natural conditions. In the same way a perfumer would, he crafts the most judicious fragrance, the most faithful rendition of his aesthetics by pre-selecting a vineyard block and a grape variety based on their resonance, before ultimately achieving the most appealing and most harmonious composition. “There is no rule book”, he explains. “We take the liberty of producing wines without emphasising the appellation as the main ‘gateway’. At the moment, though, we do not work with village-designated appellations”. The Arcane Le Soleil label is primarily a blend of old-vine Grenache with very limited yields, Mourvèdre over 80 years old and 50-year-old Syrah. The vines face the rising sun on cool hillsides in the northern part of Vaucluse. L’Arcane La Fortune has a majority share of Grenache but the intent is to seek out a Cinsault style, with a trace of Mourvèdre lending structure and balance bordering on perfection.
A blending session curated by Xavier Vignon.
Founded in 1859, Maison Ogier is based in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, in the heart of one of the South of France’s most prestigious appellations. Focusing on subtle variations in the character of the wines and a sustained vine purchasing strategy, the company successfully combines a variety of soils, climates and grape varieties whilst at the same time maintaining balance, assertiveness and precision in each of its labels. Its Côtes-du-Rhône Villages wines display a shared signature style that is sought-after in each of the appellations – this is defined by the purity of the fruit, depth and freshness. “Diversity is what makes Côtes-du-Rhône Villages wines such a treasure trove”, feels PR manager Marion Souchiere. “Rhone Valley typicity is there, but due to the multiple vineyard sites across the region, each one has a unique style. To achieve this, our blends feature between 60% and 70% Grenache and we work differently every vintage with the same focus on replicating our signature style by factoring in harvest dates, winemaking and maturation techniques”.
Édouard Guérin, the winemaker at Maison Ogier.
Maison Ogier is based in Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
The vast majority of Côtes-du-Rhône Villages are made as red wines, representing approximately 94% of volumes. These rich, powerful, complex wines boast strong appeal and also the ability to age for up to ten years. A constant, unwavering quest for quality and the remarkable work of the winegrowers, who have made a wholehearted commitment to the appellation, have made it a benchmark, known for its complex aromatic spectrum, great structure, generous character, good ageability and truly appealing value for money. In addition to this, their range of aromatics makes them suitable for a very broad array of food pairings. “We are seeing interest in Côtes-du-Rhône Villages both in France and internationally”, claims Amandine Bodin, PR officer with Maison M. Chapoutier. “Consumers are increasingly looking for site-specific wines offering premium quality”. All of these assets have the ability to leverage export growth, particularly in European, American and Asian markets.
