Wine Terroirs
By Jean-Paul Burias - Photographs: courtesy of the estates, posted on 24 July 2024
As France’s largest wine region, Languedoc is home to a unique collection of wines spanning all three colours. Boasting myriad vineyard sites, grape varieties and spectacular scenery, the region allows visitors to take a deep and breath-taking dive into an endless world of flavours and beauty.
There is a wide range of pleasures, all of them taking on an amazing new dimension in Languedoc. France’s largest wine region excels for its diversity, hosting 20 appellations and 13 regional or complementary designations. Stretching from the foothills of the Massif Central and the Pyrenees to the Mediterranean Sea, the plateaux and hillsides invariably bask in sunshine and multiple micro-climates shaped by the wind. They roll out a substantial variety of soil types that help lend the wines their character. These are wines that over the past forty years or so have experienced an incredible quality revolution. As an unspoilt region that has become a favourite destination for holidaymakers, Languedoc offers plenty to discover and an unrivalled journey into the land of great appellations, at very reasonable prices.
In the heart of the Corbières, along the Cathar chateau route, this winery made a pledge to produce quality wines as early as 1914. Its name pays tribute to the young women in the village who, during the First World War, not only replaced the men who went off to fight but also made a lasting impression on local history. The Cellier des Demoiselle’s 400 hectares under vine are located between 100 and 400 metres above sea level, across several villages and sites. The co-operative brings together around fifteen large families who can either develop their wines individually or collectively under the Cellier des Demoiselles banner. “We have an extensive range of grape varieties, some of which are native to the region like our old Carignan vines with an average age of 70”, explains the winery’s director Anaël Payrou. “But we also have more under-the-radar varieties like Bourboulenc and Caladoc. We have introduced wine tourism activities, mostly focused on the summer season, with a trail through the village, along the river and the vineyards, followed by a visit to our winery and a wine tasting”. The cellar door shop is open all year round and direct-to-consumer sales account for 15% of revenue.
Anael Payrou, director of Cellier des Demoiselles
Franck Picard, one of the winegrowers at Cellier des Demoiselles
Nearby Carcassonne with its world-famous mediaeval walled city and castle, along with the beaches lining the Mediterranean, provide a superb opportunity for visitors to enjoy an amazing get-away at this beautiful Corbières estate. Vine growing, which is ubiquitous here, dates back to the 2nd century BC and has expanded since Roman Times. Château du Grand Caumont, named after the garrigue-dominant surroundings, boasts 105 hectares under vine and produces stellar aromatic, inviting wines with passion and the utmost concern for preserving the environment. In 1906, Louis Rigal, the founder of Roquefort Rigal cheese, bought the property and grew vines until he passed the business on to his son – also called Louis – in 1945. Subsequently, Louis’ wife Françoise took over in 1980, then her daughter Laurence Rigal joined her in 2003 after working in marketing and communications in Paris for fifteen years. Drawing on her previous experience, Laurence helped craft distinctive, elegant and perfumed wines. “The vineyards grow on clay-limestone terraced soils and gravel with excellent drainage. The climate is hot, dry and windy which promotes very ripe fruit, harvested through to mid-October”, she explains. “Fermentation of whole clusters, our location along the Corbières valley floor and gentle, restrained macerations produce rich, round, fruity Mediterranean-style wines that are supple and elegant. They are at the other end of the spectrum from the extremely concentrated, harsh wines – they are a great match for current consumer expectations and appeal to enthusiasts, irrespective of the country they come from”. Visitors can expect a warm, bespoke welcome and can explore the 15th-century tower and ancient tools with gorgeous views over the vineyards and the garrigue in the backdrop.
Patrick Blanchard, the cellar master at Château du Grand Caumont and Laurence Rigal
An overview of Château du Grand Caumont
Set in a natural amphitheatre surrounded by hillsides and garrigue, this jewel in the Corbières crown means ‘the top of a wide hill’ in Occitan, alluding to the extensive rolling hills where the winery is located. Situated 150 metres above sea level at the foot of Mount Alaric, Château Pech-Latt’s vineyards are entirely harvested by hand. They cover soils of limestone and red marl and bask in outstanding weather conditions with a prevailing Mediterranean climate. “The estate was the first one to be certified organic in 1995”, stresses export sales representative Mélody Royer. “As the vineyards extend over 160 hectares, this implies significant effort by all the staff. This is a unique, unspoilt location revealed through outstanding micro-terroirs”. Since the turn of the century, it has been owned by the Subotic family who have made a major pledge as custodians of this singular natural gem, restoring the chateau’s historic heritage and its winery. As a token of this new impetus, reward has come in the form of numerous accolades.
Work at Château Pech-Latt
Harvesting at Château Pech-Latt
Nestled in the namesake river basin, Côtes de Thongue epitomise a unique, elegant vision of Languedoc. The landscape is very open and defined by ’puechs’. These bucolic hills cover a range of soil types depending on their setting, from sandy marl to stony terraces and more subtle clay – Domaine La Croix Belle is home to these three soils. Owned by the Boyer family since the 18th century, the property’s surroundings are dotted with a rich built heritage including numerous 19th-century ’châteaux pinardiers’, built from the proceeds of the booming wine industry in the Béziers plains. “Our soils and sub-soils are varied and complementary, guaranteeing complex, elegant wines”, says Françoise Boyer, the winery’s owner. “Diversity is greatly enhanced by the vineyard sites and grape varieties”. The property is committed to farming quality wines using environmentally-friendly techniques. Certified organic, it has greatly reduced the amount of spraying and promotes the use of ozonated water to protect the vineyards. “Our extensive varietal range favours typical regional cultivars”, adds Jacques Boyer. “This allows us to get creative and to benefit from a measure of freedom in our blends, which is our speciality – we have a wide variety of blends across all three colours”. Exports account for a significant chunk of sales with 50% of output bound for long-standing markets like Germany, the Netherlands, Belgium, and more recently, the United States, Canada, Japan and Australia.
The Boyer family in their vineyard
Since 1990, Sieur d’Arques has staged Toques et Clochers, a major festive event that has since then become one of France’s most popular. Every year a village is selected to host the festival which attracts 30,000 people to taste wines and celebrate the renovation of its church. The programme includes a charity auction with some of the proceeds used to renovate the 42 bell towers within the Limoux appellation area, helping to preserve local heritage and architecture. Since 1946, the excellent Sieur d’Arques winery has established a reputation as an unrivalled wine creator, combining expertise, techniques and tradition across its 1,500 hectares of single-vineyard selections. “Our situation benefits from unique weather patterns”, explains marketing manager Laurence Rouanet. “Atlantic breezes meet the Mediterranean heat, creating a micro-climate that is ideal for growing vines. The Limoux wine region is renowned for its long-standing expertise in sparkling wines – Blanquette and Crémant de Limoux – as well as its Chardonnays that show remarkable freshness and minerality. Mauzac, a rare native grape variety, and Pinot noir also feature among the noteworthy grape varieties in our wine region”. Over 7% of the co-operative winery’s revenue comes from direct-to-consumer sales, both at the cellar door facilities and through distance selling, buoyed by visits and tastings. Its ancient techniques and perfect control over the production process in compliance with the most stringent standards and certifications have acted as a magnet for a demanding consumer audience in 46 countries that remain loyal to the winery.
Laurent Bouiges, the managing director, and Pierre-Louis Farges, the chairman of Sieur d'Arques
Sébastien Canut, the general secretary at Sieur d'Arques
Right off the bat, Mas du Novi leaves a lasting impression for its beautiful vineyards and arid garrigue land, buffeted by the Tramontane wind and sea mist. Facing the Mediterranean Sea, at an elevation of 150 metres, this 50-hectare, organically-farmed winery is a benchmark in this beautiful area. “Due to our location and the sea mist, we can craft signature Mediterranean wines showing perfect balance with fruit and spice notes”, explains its director Thierry Thomas, whose main mission is to grow vines. “This outstanding historic site was chosen by the Romans then by Cistercian monks. Now, it is farmed authentically by artisans who craft contemporary wines”. The range displays remarkable character and identity, yet at the same time remains very palatable.
Vineyard management at Mas du Novi
Thierry Thomas, the director of Mas du Novi
Originally owned by monks from Caunes-Minervois abbey, this property is named after Château de Bagnoles and its picturesque 13th-century keep which rises up from the middle of the cellar. The vineyards showcase the Minervois and Cabardès appellations in an area where the Mediterranean climate starts to transition and which is home to clay-limestone hills and gravelly terraces. Since the 15th century, the Panis-Mialhe family has combined a respect for traditional values with modernity. In 1996, Jean Panis, the current owner, produced his first vintage. “Our range runs the gamut from fruity, easy-drinking wines to structured, delicate and elegant offerings”, he explains. “We use short pruning and are strict about soil management, using natural fertilisation. We only harvest the grapes when they are perfectly ripe. And because the best advertisement is an open bottle, we host tastings in the keep, located in the middle of the winery”. The chateau sells 50% of its wines overseas, mainly in Europe with consignments now shipped to the United States and China.
A drone view of the cellar at Château du Donjon
Jean Panis with his daughter Camille and wife Caroline
Château Saint Jacques d’Albas is perfectly situated in the Minervois area between the Black Mountains and the Canal du Midi. It boasts numerous assets for crafting high-end wines. Its 60 hectares of woodland act as a shelter for its 26-hectare vineyard. The chateau still has all the charm of an historic building with a lovely 11th-century chapel. Since 2001, the team led by Graham Nutter, the winery’s owner, has made the wines on site in order to improve control over them. It also favours quality by reining in yields and takes a long-term vision of soil management. “This is a small-scale organic property with a lot of natural spaces and flora that can add aromatics to a broad range of wines with very reasonable prices”, stresses Graham Nutter. “We welcome tourists from around the world with three gîtes, a swimming pool and tennis court. The setting is ideal for some peaceful relaxation or to go exploring the many tourist sites whilst at the same time sharing our passion for wine”. The chateau produces red, rosé and white organic Minervois appellation wines and PGI Pays d’Oc from an extensive varietal range: Syrah, Grenache Noir, Mourvèdre, Carignan, Cinsault, Marsanne, Roussanne, Viognier, Grenache Gris and Blanc, Vermentino or Rolle and Petit Manseng, in blocks where vine age, soils and aspects differ, lending the wines huge aromatic variety.
Graham Nutter, the owner of Château Saint Jacques d'Albas
The windmill at Château Saint Jacques d'Albas
Set in the foothills of the Black Mountains north of Carcassonne, Château La Villatade is home to a beautiful Occitan manor house built in the middle of the 17th century. With a large square courtyard as its focal point, it is surrounded by 16 hectares of vines and 130 hectares of unspoilt countryside unfurling over rolling hills clad with olive and pine groves and garrigue. After spending thirty years working in new technologies, Richard Andreelli and his wife Sophie decided to sell their business and take over the estate in 2016, applying biodynamic principles and sustainable winegrowing that is clean and mindful of the environment. They have invested significantly in renovating the existing buildings for agri-tourism and wine tourism activities, and have also fully renovated the winery. “The vineyards are farmed in compliance with High Environmental Value standards (HVE)”, points out Richard Andreelli. “We make quality wines from low-cropping vines producing 25 hectolitres per hectare in order to instil the fruit with rich aromatics and greater concentration. Blended from Syrah and Grenache, our reds are silky and fruity and driven by aromas of blackcurrant and blackberry with a menthol edge coupled with spices showing varying degrees of pepper”. The rosés are fruity, energetic and juicy with a light, bright pink hue and great exuberance on the palate driven by delicate aromatics. The white Minervois is dry but not overly so with appetising, harmonious flavours. It delivers great mineral freshness revolving around fruit notes.
Panoramic views of Château la Villatade
Richard and Sophie Andreelli
Domaine de Belle Mare is a must-visit for all those aiming to discover the appealing aromatic world of Pays d’Oc and the Picpoul de Pinet appellation. The visit has a decidedly Mediterranean, maritime tone along the shores of Thau lagoon, the largest and deepest in the region. For over two decades, the Lapoulvailarie family has bridged the gap between Man and Land in these unspoilt surroundings. Boasting seven red grape varieties – Syrah, Grenache, Merlot, Cabernet-Sauvignon, Cinsault, Pinot Noir and Alicante Bouschet – and seven whites – Picpoul, Vermentino, Viognier, Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Roussanne and Muscat à Petits Grains – this iconic location produces generous, enjoyable wines. “The vineyard is one of the closest to Thau lagoon with its specific maritime site and breath-taking views over Mont Saint-Clair and the oyster beds”, says winery manager Benjamin Baudry. “Our wines are lively and fresh with great accessibility, which sets them apart from sites farther inland. The fine, mineral Picpoul de Pinet appellation is extremely popular and the only single varietal Picpoul”. It opens doors to every market, ushering in the range of PGI Pays d’Oc which account for 90% of production.
Benjamin Baudry, director of Domaine de Belle Mare
Set at the foot of Hortus plateau, Bergerie du Capacin offers stunning views. Surrounded by garrigue, the typical Pic Saint Loup soils and climate shape the outstanding character of Languedoc’s most northerly appellation. “We produce clean, precise wines”, stresses Guilhem Viau, who has owned the winery since 2008. “The Syrah shows full-on expression with finesse, elegance, volume and length along with fine, elegant tannins”. Emphasis is placed on hospitality with a tour of the new winery and maturation cellar and tastings. “I want to offer visitors an introductory, aspirational experience showcasing the vineyards and my work”, adds Guilhem Viau. “I am also going to develop rental solutions for the winery and the rooftop terrace for people looking for a private events space”.
Guilhem Viau in the cellar at Bergerie du Capucin
Guilhem Viau, the owner and founder of Bergerie du Capucin
Set in the foothills of the Cevennes mountains and steeped in Mediterranean traditions, Domaine Les Grandes Costes combines exciting wines and a personable spirit with the traditional grape varieties Grenache, Cinsault, Carignan and Syrah, all of which are low-cropped. “Our identity has been established through characterful wines, mostly red, with supple tannins, black fruit flavours and persistent freshness”, comments Jean-Christophe Granier, who took over the estate from his grandfather in 1998. “Our yields are low, with an average of 35 hl/ha, preserving the character and identity of our vineyard sites and offering substantial ageability”. The winery is set in the heart of a tourist hot spot and receives regular visits from enthusiasts keen to explore wine and give their senses a wake-up call with the colours, textures and balance that define the Pic Saint-Loup and Languedoc appellations and PGI Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert.
Harvest time at Domaine Les Grandes Costes
Jean-Christophe Granier, the owner of Domaine Les Grandes Costes
the vineyards at Domaine Les Grandes Costes
Languedoc is home to incredible variety and still offers wines at relatively moderate prices compared with other prestigious appellations. Its Mediterranean climate and beautiful scenery make it a destination in a league of its own. Its winegrowers who were disparaged in the 1950s for their mass-produced wines have successfully grasped the nettle and turned the tide. For over forty years, the entire region rallied behind this very ambitious project with the first appellations emerging in 1982 then Vins de Pays d’Oc in 1987. The relevance of this expertise set Languedoc on the right track and enabled it to encapsulate the region’s inherent qualities. The metrics speak volumes about the success of this endeavour – five bottles of Languedoc appellation wine are sold every second worldwide, three of them in France. The range of wines combines complexity, balance and freshness against a magnificent natural backdrop. It is a fusion of unique typicities and has that extremely rare quality of allowing each winegrower to aim for a reputation on a par with that of the highest quality wines through hard work. This incredible vitality and drive become even more tangible when you travel along its wine routes, with heady garrigue aromas of fig and blackberry pinpointing the powerfulness and variety of its vineyard sites. That, in essence, is what we have tried to convey in this feature report.
Wine Terroirs
Wine Terroirs
Wine Terroirs