By Francesco Saverio Russo - Photographs: Courtesy of the estates, posted on 24 July 2023
The Soave vineyard hills were recently included among the Globally Important Agricultural Heritage Systems sites and are one of the main production areas for Italian white wine. Home to the appellation’s signature grape Garganega, along with Trebbiano di Soave, the region is unique in terms of tradition and biodiversity. We drill down on its specifics.
Corte Adami Boasts sizeable acreage in one of Soave's most important ugas, Castelcerino.
The Soave DOC wine region is located in the province of Verona, below the Lessini mountains, on the border with the province of Vicenza. The area has ancient winegrowing traditions which were recognised in 1931 through the first defined area for the production of 'Vino Tipico Soave', on the basis of which the Soave Classico DOC appellation was created in 1968.
Today, wines produced according to the regulations are Soave DOC, Soave Classico DOC, Soave Superiore DOCG, and Recioto di Soave DOCG:
- Soave DOC is produced both as a still and sparkling wine (minimum 70% Garganega and 30% Trebbiano di Soave or Chardonnay. A maximum of 5% of other white grapes traditionally grown in the area is allowed.)
- Soave Classico is the designation’s most historic area, located in the hills between Soave and Monteforte d'Alpone. The soil is mainly a basalt matrix with limestone outcrops, resulting in more complex wines.
- Soave Colli Scaligeri is produced in the hills of the same name that form a sort of horseshoe around Soave Classico and represent a more recent wine region.
- Soave Superiore DOCG is at the top of the quality pyramid, produced with 70% Garganega and 30% Trebbiano di Soave. It is grown across the Soave Classico and Soave Colli Scaligeri areas, although when certain requirements are met, Soave Doc grapes may also be classed as Superiore. Yields are reduced to 10 tons per hectare and the minimum alcohol content is increased to 12% for Superiore and 12.5% for Superiore Riserva. Superiore wines cannot be sold until April of the year following the harvest, and Riserva wines cannot be sold until November, or about a year after the harvest.
Time and wood are important allies for the wines produced by Bertani, but regional identity always prevails over style.
The typical vine training system is the Veronese pergola system. Although this system has been superseded in many new plantings by the guyot espalier system, it is proving to be interesting in the fight against climate change.
The Soave area embraces thirteen localities spread over four valleys: Val d'Alpone, Val Tramigna, Val d'Illasi and Val di Mezzane. A further geological and pedological division can be made between the volcanic hills, calcareous hills, plains of volcanic origin, and calcareous plains.
Soave is one of the volcanic territories, and the soils are variable: they range from black soils to red soils richer in iron oxide, from very poor soils to very fertile soils, from basalts to clays with calcareous outcrops.
Recent territorial zoning has led to the inclusion in the specifications of 33 UGAs (added geographical units):
Castelcerino, Fittà, Tremenalto, Corte del Durlo, Costalunga, Menini, Castellaro, Brognoligo, Costeggiola, Campagnola, Sengialta, Colombara, Foscarino, Carbonare, Rugate, Coste, Monte Grande, Pressoni, Costalta, Casarsa, Pigno, Ponsara, Froscà, Volpare, Tenda, Croce, Zoppega, Ca' del Vento, Broia, Paradiso, Monte di Colognola, Duello, Roncà - Monte Calvarina.
These 'Crus' have become a way of showcasing the identity of the vineyards for many important wineries, including the following.
Bertani
Bertani, founded in 1857 in Verona by brothers Giovan Battista and Gaetano Bertani, represents a benchmark for production techniques, both for vine growing and winemaking, applied to all their estates from Valpantena to Soave. Underlying Bertani's success is a profound knowledge and great respect for the land. Bertani has always placed the land at the centre of its project as a value and a prerequisite for all company business. The commitment has always been aimed at enhancing the characteristics of terroir to try and bring out its best qualities. Over the years, Bertani has been able to select the most prized and historically appropriate areas in the Veneto region, and for white grapes, this could only be in the Soave area.
The company aims to respect the genetic heritage of the vineyards, eliminating herbicides, chemical fertilisers and systemic products to preserve biodiversity. It has a non-invasive winemaking approach which respects the identity of the wines. All this has been made possible by a passionate team that has full control of production.
The company produces a Soave (which from 2022 will be Soave Classico), the Soave Original Vintage Edition – selected by the British King George VI as his coronation wine in 1937 – and the Soave Classico Sereole. Key markets are the USA, Canada, Germany and Japan. The Asia Pacific market is expanding, followed by Northern Europe. Potential new markets include Africa and the Middle East.
The 17th century villa Erbice and its traditionally laid out cellar.
Villa Erbice
The company was founded by 'grandfather' Narciso in 1900. The name derives from the 17th century villa where the company is based. Villa Erbice is a family-run business with the brothers Luca and Massimo (4th generation) and their father Silvio all playing a leading role. Each has their own area of responsibility: care of the vineyard, cellar, marketing and public relations, but they all work closely together to oversee the winery as a whole. The company produces wine entirely from its own 8 hectares of land in the Val di Mezzane, about 20 km east of Verona.
Procedures in the vineyards are kept to a minimum in a bid to achieve an ideal and sustainable balance. Silvio, Luca and Massimo's daily work is defined by dedication, constant research and experimentation both in the field and in the cellar, rediscovering and adapting long abandoned practices and techniques that fell into disuse in favour of modernity and innovation.
The vineyards, flanked by a stream, boast mainly soils of alluvial origin which is strongly calcareous and very rich in organic substance (60% silt, 25% clay, 15% sand).
Villa Erbice produces two types of Soave Superiore DOCG:
Soave Superiore Docg (100% Garganega) is aged in stainless steel on fine lees for 10 months before bottling.
Soave Superiore Docg - Panvinio (100% Garganega) is harvested slightly later than the first, then fermented in French oak barriques for 6 months and fermented for a further 4 months in stainless steel before bottling.
Villa Erbice sells 30% of its wines locally in the province of Verona and exports 70% with the majority bound for Europe but some travelling to the USA and Asia.
The history of Villa Erbice dates back many years, when grandfather Narciso began producing wine in 1900.
Tenuta Santa Maria di Gaetano Bertani
The company was established in Arbizzano di Negrar by brothers Giovanni and Guglielmo Bertani who, in memory of their father Gaetano Bertani, continue a project founded on meticulous and respectful work in the vineyard and a pioneering application of innovative practices including the use of the high-density, low-yield Guyot training system on native clones.
The vineyards are SQNPI certified. Targeted tillage and sustainable vineyard practices are the basis of their production philosophy. Particular attention is paid to harvest time to ensure their wines have good acidity and structural balance.
Soave is produced in Colognola ai Colli (Val d'Illasi), where some of the 20 hectares under vine are planted with Garganega grapes using the Veronese pergola training system. The soils are alluvial and composed of calcareous clay in the deepest layers and river stones, the result of fluvial deposits. The altitude is 60-70 m above sea level. This is where Lepiga Soave Doc is produced, the result of 3 harvests carried out by hand, to collect grapes at 3 different stages of ripening: early harvest, harvest at peak ripeness and a final harvest of overripe fruit. In this way, elegant balance and greater aromatic complexity are achieved. The grapes are then fermented in stainless steel with batonnage on fine lees for about 90 days, before the 3 different wines are blended and bottled.
Soave is exported to North America, Europe and Asia. The US market is the fastest growing and is showing renewed interest in quality Soave. Switzerland and Belgium are the most interesting European markets. In China, Soave is slowly beginning to gain a foothold, while Japan remains a key market thanks to increased knowledge and pairings with local cuisine.
I Stefanini
A historic grape-growing family that became a wine producer, at the behest of oenologist Francesco Tessari (who was 20 years old at the time) in 2003, thanks to the family vineyards in Monteforte d'Alpone/Roncà. In the beginning, little was bottled, and most was sold in bulk. It was only after the crisis of 2008, when bulk sales began to collapse, that Francesco realised the importance of having his own brand and sales structure.
To date, I Stefanini owns 18 hectares of vineyards: 3 hectares in the classic zone - behind the winery - and 15 hectares in the Soave Doc zone between Roncà and Peraro. In these 15 hectares, Garganega is the primary variety grown, but there is also some Durella, Chardonnay and Pinot Grigio. Production is currently around 120-130,000 bottles per year.
The nickname 'I stefanini' dates back many years. The Tessari surname is widespread not only in the Val d'Alpone but also among Soave producers themselves. One of Francesco's ancestors was a certain Stefano, a small man who was called Stefanino in the village because of his small stature. Over time, the whole family acquired the nickname Stefanini, hence the name of the winery.
Francesco tessari is supported by his family and in particular by his father Valentino and his uncle Giuseppe, who are pivotal to work in the vineyard.
For 20 years now, Francesco has been supported in his work in the vineyard and cellar by his entire family: Dad Valentino, the agronomist; Mum Stefania, in charge of tastings; Uncle Giuseppe, who works in the vineyard, assisting Francesco and Valentino; Aunts Valeria, Maria Grazie and Luisa, who help with the grape harvest and during bottling; and wife Maristella, the sales manager for Italy.
They produce 3 Soave wines: Soave Doc ‘Il Selese’; Soave Doc Classico ‘Monte de Toni’; and Soave Superiore Docg Classico ‘Monte di Fice’. The ‘Il Selese’ label (100% Garganega - 100,000 bottles) comes from vineyards (1987) in the foothills with silty-clayey soils. ‘Monte de Toni’ (100% Garganega - 12,000 bottles) is produced from 2 hectares of red volcanic soil, rich in iron oxide. The single vineyard is located in UGA Costalunga, just below Monte di Fice. The ‘Monte di Fice’ label (Garganega 100% - 6,000 bottles) is produced on black, basalt volcanic soil. It is the top wine and the one with the greatest longevity.
The most important market is undoubtedly the Québec Liquor Corporation where around 40,000 bottles of Selese are shipped each year. I Stefanini also exports throughout Europe, to several states in America, Japan, and recently to Australia. A total of 19 locations generate exports representing 75% of sales.
The cellar at I Stefanini was founded as recently as 2003 and is located in Monteforte d'Alpone.
I Campi
I Campi was established in 2006 from the vision and commitment of Flavio Prà, a young winemaker from Verona whose CV boasts numerous prestigious consultancies with the most important wineries in Veneto and Italy. The winery's 14 hectares are spread over the major designations in the Verona area and the vineyards are rooted in deep soils of varied composition that yield wines showing great character.
Flavio's philosophy is to put the varietal and regional identity embodied in each vineyard first.
'Every wine wants its land: I have searched for the land'. This phrase is the foundation and pillar of the company's vision, i.e. the need to respect and enhance the land, starting with sustainable, non-invasive vineyard management and carefully chosen environmentally-friendly materials and processes throughout the production cycle.
I Campi produces two Soave wines: Soave DOC Campo Base (100% Garganega) from both volcanic and calcareous soils; Soave DOC Classico Campo Vulcano (85% Garganega and 15% Trebbiano di Soave), a cru from volcanic soil only. Both are aged only in stainless steel but the Campo Base is a vintage wine, while the Campo Vulcano is more suited to ageing. The company produces 150,000 bottles and exports 75% to north-central Europe, North America, South-East Asia and Oceania, in an attempt to raise awareness of the designation in Italy and worldwide.
The I Campi cellar based in Cellole (VR) receives grapes produced in the company's 14 hectares under vine that are distributed across the major Verona destinations.
Young Verona winemaker Flavio Prà, who boasts numerous prestigious consultancies with the most important wineries in Veneto and Italy, is the driving force behind 'I Campi'.
Corte Adami
Corte Adami, now in its first generation of winemakers and third generation of winegrowers, began producing Soave and Valpolicella wines in 2004 on their 40 hectares of land. Their key objective is to produce great wines which are capable of expressing and celebrating the regional qualities and heritage of the native grapes in the Veronese area.
The Adami family’s children are now involved in the business with Andrea as the wine producer, Martina as the sales manager and Giulia as the administration manager, while Stefano is currently completing his oenology studies. Their father Angelo is following in the footsteps of his grandfather, Adami Gaetano, the founder of the winegrowing business.
For Corte Adami, the starting point in the production of great wines lies in the vineyards. Old vines offer a great mirror to the terroir and can provide elegance and ageability in a natural way. The vineyards are located in one of the historic Cru of the Soave area: Castelcerino, at an altitude of 350 metres above sea level. The area is characterised by calcareous soil with volcanic rocks, sometimes tuffaceous, significant diurnal shift and mild temperatures even during summer evenings. The combination of these factors produces Soave wines with great minerality, incredible fragrance, acidity and elegance, with a rich bouquet of fruity and floral notes.
Corte Adami produces a Soave DOC Classico (Uga Castelcerino) and a Soave Superiore DOCG (Uga Castelcerino). Its key markets for Soave are Japan and various European markets (with Germany and Belgium in first place).
Their father Angelo is following in the foodsteps of his grandfather, Gaetano Adami, the founder of the winegrowing business.
In the new Corte Adami callar in Soave, the entire winemaking process is carried out with the aim of preserving the integrity of the fruit's identity.
Cadis 1898
Cadis 1898 was founded a few months ago. “The name may be new but the soul remains the same one which has guided us for 125 years in our quest to achieve the best results for the 2,000 members of our co-operative and for all those customers who have been buying our bottles for years,” explains General Manager Wolfgang Raifer. Cadis 1898 is the acronym formed by the initials of the historic name Cantina di Soave, alongside the year when the group was founded: a combination of modernity and history in a broad-ranging regional project. The name Cadis 1898 covers four main wineries: Cantina di Soave, Cantina di Montecchia, Cantina di Illasi and Terre al Lago. Commercially available wines include Soave branded Cantina di Soave, Valpolicella from Cantina di Illasi, Lessini Durello from Cantina di Montecchia di Crosara and Bardolino and Custoza from Terre al Lago. “The objective is to give a precise identity to each of our labels and their home regions, while at the same time pursuing what has always been our mission: to put the Scaligera designations and their regions on the map,” says Raifer.
Cadis 1898's philosophy involves a supply chain which goes from the grape to the bottle. Investments in recent years have made it possible to monitor the grapes from the vineyard to the shelf. Through Cantina di Soave, Cadis 1898 owns 48% of the vineyards in the Soave Doc production area and 43% of Soave Classico. Among the products that stand out are the Soave Classico Doc ‘cru/uga’ ‘Fittà’, the Soave Classico Doc ‘cru/uga’ ‘Castelcerino’ and the Soave Classico Doc ‘San Lorenzo’, dedicated to the patron saint of the town of Soave. There is also a Soave Doc, an organic Soave Doc, as well as the sweet version Recioto di Soave Classico Docg.
Cadis 1898 has a strong presence in the domestic market in terms of revenue (66%) but continues to expand abroad. Here the key markets are Germany, England and northern Europe.
Vineyards in the added geographical unit 'Castelcerino' where cadis 1898 produces one of its Soave DOC wines.
In terms of the future, the Soave appellation certainly enjoys good growth, especially abroad, where it is increasingly appreciated. Soave has not traditionally been very popular in terms of quality, but the suitability of the terroir, sustainability goals and renewed technical awareness in the vineyard and cellar are raising the bar. The region is not shying away from the challenges of the future. It can rely on biodiversity and a more positive response to climate change than in other areas, both in terms of soil and climate conditions and grape varieties.
Borgo Rocca Sveva's experimental vineyard close to the castle of Soave which is managed by Cadis.
