Wine Terroirs
By Francesco saverio russo, Photographs: Courtesy of the estates, posted on 08 April 2025
With some 11,000 farms, 600 wineries and over 90,000 hectares under vine, Puglia accounts for around 10% total production in Italy. We take a closer look at what makes this mid-Mediterranean region unique.
Located in southern Italy, Puglia is home to four DOCG designations, three of which stem from the erstwhile DOC Castel del Monte, in addition to Primitivo di Manduria Dolce Naturale DOCG. There are also 28 DOC and six IGT designations. Puglia is a vast and particularly long region, stretching no fewer than 400 kilometres from north to south. There are four main wine regions in Puglia: Daunia, Murgia, Messapia, with Valle d’Itria, and Salento. Daunia includes the province of Foggia, with the designations Cacc'e Mmitte di Lucera DOC and San Severo DOC. The main grape varieties are Nero di Troia and Bombino bianco, and there is also some Sangiovese, Montepulciano and Negroamaro.
Murgia, with the province of Barletta-Andria-Trani, has soils characterised by limestone agglomerates that descend towards the Adriatic coast. Here there are the three Castel del Monte DOCGs: Castel del Monte Bombino Nero DOCG, Castel del Monte Nero di Troia Riserva DOCG and Castel del Monte Rosso Riserva DOCG. In Trani, the DOC Moscato di Trani is found in wines made from the Moscato bianco grape variety which have been put through the appassimento drying process. A liqueur version is also produced.
In Valle d'Itria, the Locorotondo DOC denomination covers wines made mainly from the Verdeca and Bianco d'Alessano grape varieties. In Messapia, an ancient region that encompasses the Lecce plain, the Zagarese plain, Capo d'Otranto, Matino on the Ionian Sea and stretches all the way to Santa Maria di Leuca, the main grape variety is Primitivo, the star of one of the most famous appellations in Puglia, Primitivo di Manduria DOC. This variety is also used to make passito, labelled DOCG Primitivo di Manduria Dolce Naturale. This area is defined by limestone soils, which are very fertile and red in colour due to the high presence of iron in the subsoil. In Salento, where the soils have a similar composition, the most important grape variety is Negroamaro, which is often blended with Malvasia Nera, from Lecce and Brindisi, as seen in the most famous appellations of origin, such as Salice Salentino DOC, Leverano DOC, Brindisi DOC and Squinzano DOC, as well as Gioia del Colle DOC, the other most important appellation for Negroamaro.
Puglia is blessed with a unique combination of favourable soil and climate conditions and deep-rooted winemaking traditions. Located in the centre of the Mediterranean, it benefits from a climate typified by mild winters, warm summers and constant winds, which contribute to optimal grape ripening. Among the indigenous Puglian grape varieties, Primitivo is of key importance due to its historical value and versatility. The cultivar, genetically related to the American Zinfandel and Croatian Tribidrag, has found its ideal habitat in Puglia, showing its full potential in areas such as Gioia del Colle and Salento. Its ability to accumulate high sugars and produce structured wines with soft tannins and intense aromas of ripe fruit and spices makes it an iconic variety in the region.
As a testament to the virtues of Puglian wine production, we have selected a number of wineries that best embody the region’s identity.
The Varvaglione 1921 winery, located in Leporano, in the province of Taranto, is one of the landmarks of the Salento region, defined as the ‘diamond of Puglia’. Drawing on a winemaking tradition spanning four generations, the company has been revitalised by Cosimo and Maria Teresa Varvaglione. Flanked by their children and a dynamic and motivated team, they have given new impetus to wine production.
Varvaglione manages over 550 hectares, of which 150 hectares are owned vineyards. The property farms mainly indigenous varieties such as Primitivo di Manduria, Negroamaro, Malvasia Nera, Aglianico, Verdeca, Falanghina, Malvasia Bianca and Fiano, as well as international varieties such as Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. The company takes meticulous care at every stage of production including the scrupulous selection of the grapes, harvesting choices, strict control of the vinification process and continuous research in a bid to constantly improve cellar techniques. Sustainability is a core focus for both the family and the company, so much so that it has achieved Equalitas certification.
The role of the winemaker is central and is carried out by the owner himself, Cosimo Varvaglione, who leads the company with a clear vision and respect for the land. Alongside his wife Maria Teresa and children Marzia, Angelo and Francesca, Cosimo conveys the charm of Salento culture and tradition through his wines, achieving the ambitious goal of encapsulating the soul of a unique territory in a bottle.
Distributed in 70 countries worldwide, Varvaglione 1921 represents a perfect balance between tradition and innovation, taking the values and quality of Puglian wines out to the world, with Primitivo as the flagship of its production. It also focuses on research and niche varieties such as the rare Susumaniello.
At the Varvaglione 1921 winery in Leporano, experience and tradition have merged over time through the use of the most advanced winemaking technology and a strong focus on market demand.
The Varvaglione family is headed by Cosimo and his wife, followed by their children Marzia, Angelo and Francesca.
Vinicola Mediterranea S.r.l., located in San Pietro Vernotico, in the heart of upper Salento, embodies the finest qualities and most typical characteristics of the Mediterranean. Its location is ideal – it is situated in an area naturally suited to viticulture, basking in the warm sun of Southern Italy and caressed by the scent of the Adriatic Sea. These factors combine to create a mild climate which is perfect for producing quality wines.
Founded in 1997 by wine experts Giuseppe Marangio and Vito Epifani, the company started by producing bulk wines, which were immediately enjoyed throughout Italy. In 2000, Vinicola Mediterranea started bottling, developing a range of wines that are now exported internationally. The flagship varieties include Negroamaro, Malvasia di Brindisi and, of course, Primitivo, alongside varieties introduced later such as Montepulciano, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese and Chardonnay, which have reached the same quality standards as the typical varieties.
The company has a winemaking capacity of 55,000 hectolitres and processes approximately 40,000 quintals of grapes annually. Equipped with modern and innovative equipment, the cellar offers temperature-controlled winemaking conditions, ensuring the excellence of the must and quality of the resultant wines.
Vinicola Mediterranea successfully combines tradition and innovation to craft wines that reflect the essence and charm of Salento for tables across the globe, thanks to a deep-rooted passion for the land and meticulous care at every stage of the process.
Vinicola Mediterranea offers a diverse range of wines, including reds, rosés and whites, many of which have won national and international awards. The company is present in both Italian and overseas markets, with distribution covering Europe, North America and Asia.
Vinicola Mediterranea is equipped with modern and innovative systems controlling the temperature of the must, though the winery also uses traditional barrel ageing.
The grape varieties used at Vinicola Mediterranea are numerous, spearheaded by Negroamaro and also Malvasia di Brindisi and Primitivo.
The Cooperativa Agricola Pliniana, founded in 1964 in Manduria, in the province of Taranto, boasts over 60 years of experience. Founded by a group of farmers and winemakers, the co-operative set itself the goal of shortening the production chain, giving greater importance to the winemaking aspect.
Today, Pliniana has more than 380 wine producers operating on an area of around 900 hectares in the Primitivo di Manduria PDO area, between Manduria, Maruggio, Sava, Avetrana and Erchie, making it one of the most important production sites in the area. Its main production is Primitivo di Manduria PDO, a wine born on the plains overlooking the sea, on land blessed by the sun and caressed by the wind. These unique climatic conditions and specific soil composition define the aromas and flavours in the wines.
The ancient technique of bush training allows the black grape varieties to harness all the energy of the land for the Pliniana cooperative's growers.
Pliniana's production philosophy is based on social cooperation in the broadest and noblest sense, with a passion for the land and winemaking, respect for regional identities and a constant quest to sustain quality. The company is committed to ensuring that the traditions, colours and flavours of the land can be combined with the spirit of innovation in order to address the challenges of the present and the future.
Pliniana promotes the spread of Salento culture in the world of wine and, despite the fact that global demand for red wines is declining, Primitivo di Manduria, the cooperative's core business, has opened up new markets for it in countries such as Cambodia, Vietnam, Thailand, China and South America, in addition to the established markets of the United States, Canada and Northern Europe.
In the coming years, the growth of wine tourism will become fundamental as a way of enhancing the proposition for Italians and foreigners alike.
The impressive barrel cellar in the winery founded by the Pliniana agricultural cooperative in 1964.
The facilities at Pliniana are much more than a winery: they bring together a community of people united by a love for the land and a desire to share Puglian excellence.
Pliniana transforms fruit grown by around 380 member growers into wine.
Castel di Salve, founded in 1885 by Antonio Winspeare, Duke of Salve, is one of Puglia's historical wine producers. Located in Depressa, a hamlet of Tricase in the province of Lecce, the winery is now run by the fourth and fifth generations of the Winspeare family, who continue to produce characteristic wines in the lower Salento region.
The historic winery was built in 1879 and is an example of 19th-century industrial architecture with star vaults in Lecce stone. Every aspect of the production process takes place here, from grape processing to vinification, ageing and bottling. The barrel cellar, hewn from the tuff, houses the reserve wines that mature in oak barriques.
Castel di Salve mainly grows native Salento grape varieties, including Negroamaro, Primitivo, Malvasia Nera di Lecce and Verdeca. The family's historic estate, Masseria Bosco Belvedere, located in the geographical centre of lower Salento, just outside Supersano at 110 metres above sea level, is the hub of agricultural activities.
The winery's production philosophy is based on respect for winemaking tradition and the architecture of the past, with special attention paid to cleanliness and temperature control, which are fundamental for obtaining stable wines without using invasive methods. The steel and concrete vats are cooled by a system powered by photovoltaic panels that have been covering around 92% of the winery's energy needs for more than 10 years.
In addition to Primitivo, the winery believes strongly in the historical identity of the area represented by the combination of Negroamaro and Malvasia Nera di Lecce. The company organises guided tours of the winery and wine tastings, offering visitors the opportunity to discover the history and production philosophy that characterise Castel di Salve.
Riccardo Winspeare Guicciardi, sales and development manager with Castel di Salve.
Mottura winery, founded in 1927 by Pasquale Mottura, is located in Tuglie, in the heart of Salento. With almost a century of history, the company is now run by the fourth generation of the Mottura family, consolidating its position as a regional leader in the production of quality wines.
The winery's historic headquarters are housed in a late 19th century Baroque-style estate, where the wines are aged in oak barriques and tonneaux, allowing the development of aromas and flavours that reflect the essence of the Salento region.
Mottura grows mainly native Puglian grape varieties, including Primitivo, Negroamaro, Fiano and Nero di Troia. These varieties form the basis of a diverse range of red, white and rosé wines that express the unique characteristics of the Salento terroir. The winery's production philosophy is based on respect for the local winemaking tradition, entwined with technological innovation. The winery is equipped with modern facilities for stabilising the wines and has a storage capacity of 8,000 hectolitres. All rooms are temperature-controlled to guarantee optimal product preservation.
Mottura is active in both the national and international markets, exporting its wines to numerous countries. The company has recently launched a new online shop, offering customers the possibility of purchasing wines directly and receiving them quickly at home.
The winery also organises guided tours and tastings, allowing visitors to immerse themselves in the history and wine culture of the Salento region for an authentic and engaging experience.
Barbara Mottura, the daughter of Pasquale Mottura, is a professional sommelier and is now head of sales and marketing at the namesake company.
Nestled in the heart of the Salento region, Tenute Masso Antico celebrates the rich wine tradition of Southern Italy, with strong ties to the land and respect for the environment. Specialising in the production of iconic wines such as Primitivo, Negroamaro and Susumaniello, the estate offers a modern interpretation of indigenous, harnessing the finest characteristics of the local terroir.
The estate stands out for its use of the bush training technique and organic farming methods, which enhance the purity and quality of the grapes. The unique ‘Clasti’ soils are rich in fossils, and the influence of the two surrounding seas create an ideal microclimate, guaranteeing wines of extraordinary aromatic complexity and freshness.
The winery’s key markets include Italy, Belgium, Germany and the United States, where the authenticity and quality of Masso Antico wines are increasingly appreciated. Each bottle is a tribute to the generosity of the Salento region and the passion for sustainable winemaking.
Daniele Simoni, the managing director of Schenk Italian Wineries.
The Erminio Campa winery, located in Torricella in the province of Taranto, has embodied the tradition and innovation of Salento winegrowing for more than three generations. Located just a few kilometres from the Ionian Sea, in the ‘Li Cameli’ and ‘Li Janni’ districts, the company is very committed to Primitivo di Manduria, to which it dedicates all of its 20 hectares of vineyards.
Grown primarily using the Puglian bush training system on clay and red earth soils, the vines benefit from an ideal microclimate: abundant sunshine, mild temperatures and constant winds that help produce grapes of extraordinary quality. Yields are deliberately low, with a maximum production of 50-60 quintals per hectare, to guarantee intense and structured wines.
Vineyard management is modern and environmentally-friendly, with sustainable techniques that protect biodiversity. Harvesting is done strictly by hand, with careful selection of the best grapes. The wines are made in temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks, followed by bottle ageing for at least six months to maximise the characteristics of the Primitivo.
Erminio Campa wines encapsulate the authenticity of Salento in Italy and the winery is also conquering foreign markets through participation in international fairs and it is consolidating its presence in Europe, the United States and Asia. Each bottle is a tribute to passion and a bond with the land, proudly carrying on the legacy handed down by grandfather Francesco and father Angelo.
Erminio Campa mainly produces Primitivo di Manduria.
Cantine Due Palme is a top-class wine cooperative founded in 1989 in Cellino San Marco in the heart of Salento, by Angelo Maci, heir to a family of winemakers. The winery covers 2,500 hectares of vineyards, located between the provinces of Brindisi, Taranto and Lecce, a unique area characterised by a warm, dry Mediterranean climate and calcareous, sandy soils which are ideal for viticulture
The pride of its production is Primitivo, a grape variety that expresses an unmistakable style here thanks to optimal ripening promoted by the Salento climate. Primitivo wines are intense soft and powerful, with an enveloping structure that translates to depth and aromatic complexity, enhancing notes of ripe fruit, spices and balanced acidity. The variety, together with other indigenous varieties such as Negroamaro and Susumaniello, recounts the quintessential qualities of Salento, a region steeped in history and traditions.
The Cellino San Marco winery is the hub of post-vineyard activities, from vinification
to ageing, with a fine barrel cellar where the wines spend time in French and American oak barriques. The strong link with the region is also emphasised through sustainable techniques and wine tourism, which attracts visitors from all over the world eager to discover the wine and gourmet food culture of Salento.
With over 40 export destinations, Cantine Due Palme has established its reputation as an ambassador of Salento around the world, celebrating its terroir through wines that combine tradition, innovation and a deep respect for the land.
Cantine Due Palme's barrique cellar, measuring 1,500 square metres is located at a depth of 5 metres.
At the Due Palme headquarters in Cellino San Marco, some 45,000 square metres are the site for winemaking, ageing, bottling and storage.
Angelo Maci, chairman of Cantine Due Palme.
Puglia is thus a pillar of Italian viticulture and its heritage of native grape varieties is undoubtedly spearheaded by Primitivo, the symbol of Salento and the region's pride and joy. It is defined by structured, intense and enduring wines that are made unique by the calcareous soils, Mediterranean climate and traditional practices such as the Puglian bush training technique.
Alongside Primitivo, varieties such as Negroamaro, Nero di Troia and Susumaniello, as well as whites (including sparkling wines) and some niche bottlings from international grape varieties, broaden the Puglian wine range, supported by a growing commitment to sustainability and innovation. With strong development of international sales and emphasis on wine tourism, Puglia combines tradition and modernity, cementing its position as one of the most dynamic and fascinating wine regions in Italy.
Wine Terroirs
Wine Terroirs
Wine Terroirs